The weather changed a lot overnight. While last night had been hot and still, this morning was cold and windy, despite the tree cover. We got going quickly.
Apparently, the 35 miles or so from Cascade Locks is one of the more often criticized portions of the Washington PCT, because its route was determined less by terrain and scenery, and more by avoiding private land. It’s supposed to have big climbs and descents without scenery, and some dry stretches.
And, indeed, it did..
Most of today's trail looked like thisThere were several signs like this.There was a nice spot to gather water early in the day, with chips of what I thought was malachite scattered in the water
I felt quite weak today, and went slow almost all the time. I might be undereating, it might be difficult terrain, I might be getting sick, or I might just be discouraged by how long until the next time I get to see anyone I knew pre-hike (that is, after I reach Canada). I don’t know.
There was much to do in Cascade Locks this morning. I needed to ship two large resupply packages to Northern Washington, plus get food for the current leg of the journey, plus do laundry.
The weather forecast showed a high of 95 today.
Since it was all I had that wasn't in the laundry, I wore my down jacket as a shirt in the hot weather
The laundromat was a peculiar place. It had no change machine, but the owner made change from his pocket instead, slowly separating the quarters from the pocket lint. He only had 7 quarters for my $2, but that was enough to start the washer. He walked slowly around the store, and told me about the town.
Shopping for supplies was tricky. I needed to put together about 14 days of food, without being too repetitive, from a fairly small grocery, and 10 of those days needed to be shipped.
I ended up with 5lbs 10oz of tortilla
After packaging and shipping my supplies, it was time for one last meal of town food before entering the wilds of Washington. We chose the Cascade Locks Ale House, across the street from the post office. And who should be inside, but Bill the dairy scientist, who we’d first met way back on Mt. San Jacinto.
Only the people looking at the camera are part of this picture
We chatted about Oregon, and about the trail to come. It turned out, the Bill and Breanna I’d seen on a list at Olallie Lake was not him — he hadn’t seen Breanna since Mammoth, more than 1000 miles ago.
We procrastinated it into a 2 hour lunch, but eventually had to leave. It was time to enter Washington, and to cross the Bridge of the Gods, past Thunder Island.
With names like that, it sounds like I'm headed to Washington on a quest to steal the hammer of ThorThere is no pedestrian route on Bridge of the Gods
Once in Washington, the trail quickly rose up into the mountains, along green ferny tree-covered trails.
There were a few long views, too
We only covered about 13 miles today. Our late start, plus the changing seasons, meant we’d have to night-hike to get any further, so we set up our tents, and went to sleep.
I woke up early, and stayed in bed late. It wasn’t a cold morning or anything, I’m just getting used to late starts. There was no hurry to be anywhere.
Soon enough, the trail reminded me that I was making progress, though.
80% complete. Good enough for a B-
The trail started with conifer-laden views of Mt. Hood, but quickly descended to lush creek valleys.
Maybe the last view of Mt. Hood, a mountain that doesn't overstay its welcomeLush greenery
The valley was part of the Eagle Creek Alternate, which followed a network of narrow creek valleys. These valleys have creeks in the bottom, and many tiny tributaries flow in across the trail.
I was gathering water from one such tributary, when who should appear but Elizabeth.
In her natural habitat?
She’d also made a mistake counting mileage on the alternate, and was nowhere near as far from Cascade Locks as she thought. So we were hiking together again.
As we progressed along the valleys, everything got steeper.
Sometimes, the trail was carved out of a cliff, as if an ice cream scoop cut through the rock to make the trailSometimes, the creek had a long way to fall
Then, we reached the main attraction: Tunnel Falls.
You see those caves behind the waterfall?A clearer view
The caves go throughFollow me!
The rest of the hike took us across several bridges, sometimes over very deep crevices.
It's difficult to judge scale here, but that's a hundred-foot drop.
This was actually easy to get aroundOn the way out, Elizabeth pointed out a tiny snake, about 6 inches long
The last stretch paralleled the freeway, which was surprisingly pleasant, considering.
Except for the freeway noise, of courseAs we approached the city, we saw Bridge of the Gods, which we'd be using as our gateway to Washington
As soon as we got into town, we had dinner at Thunder Mountain Brewing, a highly-rated brewpub on the river.
I highly rate this table's view
These are nearly all very good
At last, we went over to the motel, and went to sleep. Altogether, I’d highly recommend the Tunnel Falls area to weekend backpackers — the scenery is terrific, there’s plenty of water, and nice campsites.